I’m off to the UK for a few days, to see Aleika and Akirno, Bombay Dreams, and go to a #joiito meetup.
Birmingham and London [en]
Going to the UK for a few days.
Stephanie Booth's online ramblings
Going to the UK for a few days.
I’m off to the UK for a few days, to see Aleika and Akirno, Bombay Dreams, and go to a #joiito meetup.
I’m regularly told that I give a bad image of India (the horror stories and all that). Here is some of the nice stuff that I never write about. Things I like about India.
I’m regularly told that I give a bad image of India (the horror stories and all that). Here is some of the nice stuff that I never write about. Things I like about India:
In Thekkady, a hill-station in Kerala. Been sick, brief description of the place.
Thekkady is a nice hill-station. For the moment, the most I’ve seen of it is my hotel bedroom, thanks to the gastro-entritis that kept me in bed all day and in the bathroom all night. As far as I can see, Thekkady is mainly composed of a street lined with identical shops (with identical men in front of the shops trying to tempt you in by asking you what your name is and where you come from). When the street gets tired of shops, they turn into pretty expensive resorts, all next to each other (Cardamom Country, Spice Village, Taj Garden retreat and our more modest Ambady).
We got here yesterday after an afternoon on the road. We hired a private car, but gave up trying to communicate with the driver after he stopped the car and nearly turned back, obviously in a misguided attempt to try to satisfy an imaginary request of ours, when Anita was simply asking a curious question about the route we were taking.
Cellphones don’t work here, enquiries about paying with VISA are greeted with crispated smiles and a barely audible “no… cash please!”, and broadband internet access seems like science-fiction. You’ll therefore have to wait until I’m back in Mumbai (or at best, Cochin) to see any of the photos and videos Anita and I have been furiously shooting (within the limits of the storage space available on the memory card, of course).
I have quite a lot of backlog to type up, going back to my three weeks in Pune. Watch older entries, you might find new reading!
An account of our package days in Kerala. Nice!
It took a bit of firmness, but it was finally less difficult than I had feared to obtain the various entertainments promised in our package.
We started yesterday evening with a trip around the local canals in a canoe. Peaceful, and nice, glimpses of lives in little houses or huts near the water, and the splashing of the oar in the dark as we headed home, interrupted only by the twilight din of the birds hopping and chirping excitedly in the coconut trees.
The food was nice, although the ‘vegetable curry’ we ordered alongside the fish was ‘somewhat bland’, and we clearly hadn’t ordered enough. For my part, I was thinking ‘family style portions’, but each dish here was clearly meant to feed one person only.
We got up at dawn this morning (6:20 a.m., the birds were at it again with their racket) for a slightly longer tour through the backwaters in a motor boat. Luckily we just chugged along slowly, so the noise didn’t prevent us from enjoying the peacefulness of the morning scenes offered to us: fishing, bathing, and washing up the dirty dishes.
We came back for a hearty breakfast of appams, and discovered that the vegetable curry wasn’t too bad with a little added salt and pepper.
By nine o’clock the car (mini-van, actually) was ready to take us to a neighbouring village for a short trek. There isn’t much to say about it apart from the fact that it was pleasant and allowed the atmosphere to sink in. Anita shot quite a lot of videos with the digicam.
Lunch was a success. We had ordered a lot of food and it was really nice — especailly the prawn masala (prawns naked, if you please). We ordered accordingly for this evening.
Half of the afternoon was devoted to laying around and bathing for me, and hotel-hunting and transport-organizing for Anita. Again, I cannot say it enough: thanks, many thanks.
Around three we set off for a brief visit of the highly coloured temple, a stroll on the beach (the soft sand and warm water made me want to bathe, can you imagine!) and a walk in the town. Our driver, Matthew, turned out to be a very nice chap who told us all about the finest umbrella manufacturer in all India (here in Alleppey only), as well as a local church we peeked into.
I’ve rarely packed as many things in an Indian day as I have today!
Some thoughts about being a tourist in India, and how I hate being a tourist.
– ‘Your country?’ Asks the man on the bus.
– ‘Switzerland.’
– ‘Svizerrland!? Ooh. Why you are not staying there?’
– ‘I am staying there. I came on holiday to visit some friends. I used to live in Pune.’
– ‘Ooh, so you are just tourist, then!’
– ‘Well, er…’
That was a week or two back, on the overcrowded bus which was finally taking me down to E-Square to see Ek Haseena Thi. I’ve always hated being associated with ‘tourists’, in India or elsewhere.
Tourists come to see, not to share. They watch the world outside from cozy A/C boxes. They are impolite, they don’t know how to dress or behave, they can’t eat the food or find their way around without a map. They see what they are meant to see, stay in places specially designed for them, and buy things in shops that nobody else would buy. They have money, lots of it.
In some ways, I have to admit that I am indeed a tourist. I take lots of photographs. I buy loads of stuff in shops to bring back to Switzerland for my enjoyment and that of others. I don’t really keep an eye on what I spend, I eat in nice places, I go to the cinema as often as I like.
But on the other hand, I much prefer trying to share the life of ‘normal’ people or just walk around the town I’m staying in, rather than sleep in expensive places and do the things that only the tourists do.
I like people. I do my best not to turn them into objects. I like everyday life. I like soaking in the atmosphere of a place or time.
I’m very suspicious of other foreigners I come upon in India. I kind of assume that they are not like me, more the ‘hippy-dippy’ type, as Aleika and I used to call them. Some sort of anti-tourist snobism, in a way.
Of course, I’m wrong. Lots of foreigners in India are certainly nice people. I almost walked off for ever after saying hello to Aleika, mistakenly assuming she would be ‘at the ashram’. Quite a few of my friends from Switzerland or elsewhere have been to India, so they would therefore certainly have been ‘foreigners nice to know’ had I met them in India.
Ironically, I find myself looking at other foreigners with as much curiosity and maybe more questions as many Indians who see me walk by. Why are they here? What brought them to India? What are they looking for? How long are they staying? Do they ‘fit in’ or not in their home culture? What is their life like here?
The result is that I’ve had very little contact with other foreigners in India, and I’m aware that I’m probably passing by people who would be interesting to know. I keep myself ‘aside’, comfortably settled on a jute bag full of preconceptions and marked ‘Fab India, Pune’.
Une matinée tranquille en Inde, à la maison, avec un portée de six petits chiots.
J’émerge vaguement de mon sommeil au moment où Sagar rentre à la maison. Mon passage à la position verticale me fait douloureusement savoir que le mal de tête qui me tient compagnie depuis plusieurs jours ne s’est pas fait la malle pendant la nuit.
Je dors dans le “salon”, la pièce qui accueille les gens qui entrent dans l’appartement, puisque la chambre à coucher est occupée par les propriétaires, mes amis Shinde et Nisha, et surtout par une portée de six petits bergers allemands couinants et leur mère.
Etape incontournable au lever, l’opération-pipi prend ici une toute autre dimension. Les WC sont “à la turque”, comme on dit par chez nous, ce qui ne me dérange nullement. Par contre, je ne peux pas dire que je sois réellement enthousiaste de partager les lieux d’aisance avec les trois chiens adultes qui vivent ici. Première étape, donc, rincer tout d’abord à grande eau la cuvette et les alentours afin d’en éliminer l’urine de chien…
Je me re-pose sur mon lit et je lis quelques pages de mon fascinant livre sur les mélanges culturels dans la région d’Hyderabad au XVIIIe siècle. Shinde fait sa puja à la cuisine pendant que Nisha prépare à manger. Je croise Sagar brièvement en allant prendre quelques photos, puis il va se coucher.
Le long tintement continu de la cloche annonce la fin de la puja. Shinde passe dire bonjour, et quelques minutes après c’est Nisha qui m’appelle pour déjeuner.
Installée sur le seul tabouret de la cuisine, je finis de me réveiller en plongeant ma cuillère dans le délicieux upama épicé préparé par Nisha. Je prends cependant soin de laisser les piments sur le côté. Sagar, réveillé par les appels insistants de Shinde, vient chercher son assiette et disparaît.
Je suis la dernière à finir. Shinde est parti au travail après une courte prière (ou invocation? — il faudra que je lui demande) devant son autel; Sagar dort déjà à poings fermés.
Nisha et moi parlons du programme de la journée: ce matin, je lirai, puis j’irai au café internet cet après-midi avant que nous sortions les trois (avec Sagar) manger chez Pizza Hut. Shinde ne sera pas de la partie, comme c’est le jour où il rend visite à son guru.
Saisie d’une subite inspiration, je demande à Nisha son meilleur couteau. Suivant mon conseil, Shinde a ramené hier soir un grand carton pour les chiots – malheureusement un peu petit. J’ai vite fait de le dépiauter un peu pour en faire une sorte d’enclos assez grand pour contenir mère et petits. (Suivant un de ces raisonnemetns dont le secret m’échappe, Shinde avait prévu de n’y mettre que les chiots.)
Justement, une des petites bêtes piaille plaintivement depuis quelques minutes. Nisha a fini vaisselle et nettoyage de cuisine, et est à présent occupée à la puja. Sagar, lui, ne s’est pas réveillé malgré le bruit (une faculté toute indienne). Je vais donc m’y coller, même si la mère a une fâcheuse tendance à me considérer comme une menace pour ses petits et à la jouer “fais gaffe ou je te mords.”
Je constate qu’une fois encore, un des chiots s’est aventuré hors du tas de couvertures qui leur sert de nid. Il se retrouve maintenant sur le carrelage lisse et froid, incapable de rejoindre sa mère et les autres. Mon enclos sera bien utile. Je réussis à remettre la petite chose sur le tas grouillant de ses frères et soeurs, malgré les efforts de Silky, la mère un peu surprotectrice et nerveuse, pour me tenir à distance (elle s’assied sur ses chiots et fait mine de vouloir prendre ma main dans sa gueule.) Le bruit cesse.
Sagar, endormi à moins d’un mètre de moi, n’a pas bronché.
Nisha vient nettoyer le coin des chiots et nous y installons mon carton. Elle me félicite avec enthousiasme pour mon idée (qui rendra également le nettoyage plus aisé). Silky s’y installe aussitôt avec les chiots, que je n’ai presque pas entendu couiner depuis.
Histoire d’habituer un peu Silky à ma présence, je m’installe sur un coin du lit avec mon livre, pendant que Nisha passe le balai et la panosse dans tout l’appartement.
I have arrived safely in India. More news later.
Just a note to tell everybody that I have safely arrived in India. I’ll be taking a coach to Pune this afternoon. Expect more news in a few days, including my cellphone number!
Leaving in a week to spend a month in India.
In a week from now I’ll be on my plane to India. A bit apprehensive, as I was last time.
As always with unpredictable India, I have no idea how much I’ll be posting from there, and how often I’ll get to check my e-mail. It might be pretty often. It might be every couple of days. It might be once a week.
I’ll be staying over there for four weeks (Mumbai, Pune, Delhi, in particular), and finally meeting Anita, who courageously volunteered to come and pick me up at the airport.
If you know Barcelona well and have suggestions for a first-time visitor, or if you have contacts there, I’d love to hear from you! I’ll be flying there on Friday for a short week. I’ll be busy two days for work, but the rest of the time should be mine. Business trips are good!
Extra question: should I plan to do some rollerblading over there, or forget about it?
If you know nice people or places for camping in/near Palma de Mallorca, please let me know! Aleika and I will probably be flying down there beginning of June.